Seedlings and Germination

Seedling Plant Stage

It is amazing to look at various seeds and see something so beautiful literally come from nothing. Mother Nature never ceases to amaze us with the great strains she produces and we get to enjoy the harvest!

    A typical seed includes three basic parts:

    1. Seed coat
    2. A starter supply of nutrients for the embryo
    3. Embryo

The seed, which is an embryo with two points of growth (one of which forms the stems the other the roots) is enclosed in a seed coat with some food reserves.

You can start your seedling by either using a humi-dome, tray, rock wool or peat moss cubes to get them started. You may need to use a heating pad but be careful and make sure you do not overheat your seedlings.

Also purchase a thermostat for your heating device to eliminate this problem. A warm moist environment is needed for successful plant germination. You will need to do your homework to find out the optimum germination temperatures needed for the seeds/strains you are trying to grow.

It is key to “ALWAYS” use reverse osmosis or filtered water to generate good seedlings or clones. Your tap water may be a little rough on the youngsters! Here is good process to follow when making clones:

    What you need to do:

    1. Use a dome/tray reservoir/plug tray for rock wool plugs/peat moss cubes
    2. Filtered, distilled or reverse osmosis water
    3. Fill bottom tray with water ½ way
    4. Add either Clonnex cloning solution or Olivia’ cloning solution to water for a base nutrient
    5. Insert seeds ½ way into plug tray then put plug tray in reservoir tray and place humi-dome on top. Make sure to have a slow speed fan blowing on the dome. The dome should have 2 air holes providing good circulation.
    6. Use a heating pad but do not place the pad flush with the bottom of reservoir unless you are using a thermostat. Make sure to put a space in between the reservoir and the heating mat to ensure the clones do not get over heated. About an inch will suffice; you can use a couple off magazines to place under the reservoir to create a little space between.
    7. It is also important to spray filtered water twice a day to create a humid atmosphere which is critical during the first stages of seedlings or clones.
    8. You will also need to use a low powered fluorescent light to sustain the plant growth on top. Keep this light 1 foot above the dome. Remember light intensity needs to be kept at a minimum during this phase. Root growth is the key factor here. It is vital to keep an eye on your tray to make sure that burning does not occur.
    9. Use a airstone/pump set up to assist in root development
    10. Usually in 3-7 days you will see the sprouts arrive!
    11. Keep an eye on your water levels! Make sure it is always ½ full
    12. Once you have determined what you like you can usually transfer the youngsters to a larger grow medium within a couple of weeks after the plants are strong with a good root system.

***Special Note***
Make sure that your environment is clean with no pests especially if you have pets in the in or around the grow area. We recommend that you bug bomb your area with pyrethrums to avoid any issues from the start. Neem oil also branded as “Einstein oil” with filtered water should also be sprayed in dome the area as well in order to prevent mold and mites. Spider mites are incredibly aggressive and resilient. These little guys will ruin everything very fast! Adding an insecticide pest strip will also help… Prevention is the key all the way through to harvest. You should use neem oil all the way through!

Example:

Germinating Covered TrayGerminating Tray Germinating Cube Heating Mat

Another way to start is by placing a seed in a moist paper towel folded over. Then put the folded towel into a bowl covered with plastic. Put this set up in a dark area at room temperature environment. 90% of seeds will germinate within 20 days but usually you will see this process take place in a couple of days. After this has been accomplished place the sprouted seed in a tray with a small hydroponics grow medium such as rock wool or pea moss cubes. You can also transfer this into a soil environment as well.

A B1 or Super Thrive product can assist with transplant shock which you could encounter when you transfer to soil/or a hydroponics mediums.

Rhizotonic Sub-Culture Guardian MY

We also recommend that you use a root stimulator in order to kick off the “rhizosphere” this is the zone that surrounds the roots of plant. A couple of the best products to accomplish this with are “Rhizotonic” by Canna, “Sub-Culture” by General Hydroponics or “Guardian MY” from Botanicare.

These products contain friendly bacteria and friendly fungi to get your plant off to a good start…

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Rooting Stage

Rooting Plant Stage

One really important component of growing is to build a really good solid root environment that is free from disease.

A few ways that you can accomplish this is by feeding your roots with oxygen by using an air pump, tubing and an air stone, you can do this by simply connecting the air stone and tubing to the air pump and place the stone in the water.

We sell all of this on our site Hydro Liquidators.

Air Stone

This bubbling fizz will add oxygen to your nutrients helping your roots get huge.The simple rule is the LARGER the root mass the LARGER your crop!!! The overall girth and quality of your root system will effect the bloom cycle and ultimately the end harvest. If you want incredible results we highly recommend using a root stimulator with the effects shown below.

Mass rooting

You can see this plant was given the nutrients and special care needed for a successful harvest. We suggest using your root stimulator heavily during the 1st few weeks of your vegetative cycle and tapering it off after that throughout the cycle.

(Check out this root mass using RHIZOTONIC)

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Clones and the Cloning Stage

Cloning Plant Stage

Take clones from a “mother plant” or a plant that you have in the vegetative cycle that is well grown and at least a few feet in length with plenty of node filled stems to cut from.

Your best cuttings will come from the healthiest and most robust portions of the plant which is usually at the top portion.

Cut at a 45 degree angle lust below the third node…

Here is a great example of the relationship between a “mother” plant which is usually kept in a soil environment and a clone.

One area to be aware of regarding clones is to keep any potential air bubbles forming in the stem after you cut them. An air bubble in the stem will kill your clone! Ouch!!

Plant Node Clone Clipping

A great way to control this is to cut your clones under water and then dip your cuttings in a good quality cloning gel such as Root Tech or Clonnex.

The cloning gel will help stimulate root growth, seal from air bubbles, control shock and control disease. If you want more consistency always use gel.

You will also need the same dome, tray and peat moss/rock wool cubes used for the seedling process to make clones.

Rooting Tray Rooting Cube Rooting Medium Roting Stages Heating Mat

Here are several rules to follow making clones:

  1. Use filtered water
  2. Add a base nutrient such as a Clonnex or Olivia’ and mix with water according to directions. Fill bottom reservoir ½ way to ¾ of the way up with mixture.
  3. Soak your cubes in filter water.
  4. Cut a forty five degree incision just below the 3rd node as a precaution you can cut the stems under water to ensure that a air bubble does not develop and destroy your plant
  5. Cut off the foliage of two of the nodes
  6. Trim the large leaves off the top and keep the new bright green looking foliage on top. All of the large leaves need to go…
  7. Use a Cloning gel and dip the sniped clones
  8. Split the rock wool cubes/peat moss cubes in half and wrap the cuttings so the cut off node areas are covered by the cubes…then place the cubes in the plug tray and put the plug tray inside the reservoir tray…
  9. Place dome on top and make sure there are ventilation holes so that air can travel freely…
  10. Place a small clip on fan next to the tray to create good air flow
  11. Spray filtered water inside of the dome twice per day as way of keeping the humidity inside high. This is needed for successful cloning
  12. Use neem oil in conjunction with the water you spray inside the dome to help prevent mold and pest invasion…
  13. You should start rooting anywhere from 1-2 weeks and some cases longer depending on strain variety
  14. Power Clone 45
    Power Clone 45

    Use of a clone machine will greatly increase the success rate of cloning. In many case use of these can produce a 100% success rate. We believe the Power Clone 45 by Botanicare is the best available.

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Vegetative Plant Life Stage

Vegetative Plant Stage

The vegetative phase is just as import as the other stages in a plants growth. Your “bloom” depends heavy on how you treat your vegetative cycle. This phase take place when the sun is out longer during the summer time (Which is the optimal time for outdoor crops) and shorter in the winter time. These times tell the plant to grow in a vegetative mode and do not create flowers or buds. You will see more green foliage and vertical growth. A blue light spectrum bulb is preferred such as the Hortilux Super Blue or a full Spectrum bulb such as the Ultra Sun bulb by Sun Light Supply.

You can also use fluorescent lights such as a T5 High Output light/fixture that works great for a healthy and electrically cost effective “grow light”. Standard T12 lights are sufficient but lack the intensity of the T5s. If you are trying to vegetate at a faster rate of speed you also have the option of using a HID light which you can use in all wattages (150-1000 watt) available depending on the size and expectations you require. For small environments say 12 plants or so we recommend using a 400 watt HID ballast and metal halide lamp for aggressive growth.

The Hortilux brand is considered one of the best in the industry but a generic bulb is also effective and more intense than a fluorescent solution. If you are trying to get close to a 400 HID in a florescent, you can use an 8 bulb T5 configuration found on our site under fluorescent lights, and this will give you comparable performance with less electricity and heat. Our Commercial Grade” brand by Hydrofarm is a great quality solution with discounted prices and includes the High output bulbs in the package. You can also enhance your “grow” cycle by adding other goodies such as “Spray N Grow” or Dutchmaster foliar sprays for an extra kick. Penetrator mixed with Max Fx grow will definitely increase the vegetative rate of growth.

If you are growing in a hydroponics environment you will definitely need to PH balance your water. Canna actually puts buffers in their nutrients to lower PH levels. We have many Canna customers that don’t add any PH down when using the Canna tap water formulas or PH up with soft water nutrients such as “Aqua”.

Ideally you will need to keep the PH at around 6. PH balancing in the cloning or seedling isn’t that important because you are using purified water. Many people do not PH balance their water for soil either. We recommend that you invest in a nice PH tester like the Oakton brand for best results. You can adjust your PH levels by adding either PH down or PH up for the desired range. PH solutions are primarily composed of phosphoric acid. If you are really serious about growing we definitely suggest you invest in good quality TDS AKA “Total Dissolved Solids” tester.

Again we recommend the Oakton brand for its dependability and accuracy. The TDS tester will tell you how much stuff is in your tap water and will also tell how nutrients you are giving your plants.

    Generally speaking we recommend using these PPM guidelines for Grow and Bloom:

    High Nitrogen

    • Early Grow = 500-800PPM
    • Mid Grow = 700-1000PPM
    • Late Grow = 800-1100PPM

     

    Lower Nitrogen / Higher Phosphorous and Potassium after flowers appear

    • Early Bloom = 1000PPM-1200PPM
      • Your plant will experience a major growth spurt during this time and it is important to keep you plant on the grow nutrients for the 1st 2 weeks of your bloom cycle. Your plant needs the extra nitrogen at this time.
    • Mid bloom = 1000-1500PPM
      • Depending on the nutrient… at 3 weeks into flowering is when you need add a phosphorous potassium booster such as “Kool Bloom” by “General Hydroponics” or even better PK 13/14 by Canna. Generally speaking you only need to feed your plant for week with this.
    • Late Bloom = 1200-2500PPM
      • Depending on the nutrient. The cleaner the nutrient the less you need! 3 weeks before you harvest your plant you will need another week of phosphorous and potassium enhancement. This will greatly increase your yield.

      We also suggest using a filtration system if you can. The Tall Boy filter is incredibly efficient and cleans your water fast and leaves behind the good stuff such as beneficial microbes. You can look at your cities water qualities and determine if you need a filter. If you are running your PPMs above 300 out of the tap you may want to consider a filter. Who know what could be floating around in the water.

    Pruning is also a critical part of successfully maturing a plant. Always prune also known as trimming your plant with cleaned scissors. It is important to cut out any diseased or tweak looking leaves.

    If only a portion of the leaf is bad only cut out the bad area. If you’re lower leaves turn yellow, cut them out. Never prune more than 60% of your leaves off the plant as it may result in shock. Pruning once a week in aggressive grow periods is good and will stimulate more growth.

    B vitamin supplements such as SuperThrive are also effective at limiting shock from transplanting and also stimulate growth. Another all purpose must have product is purified seaweed extract. This stuff is loaded with Mother Nature’s best plant nutrients.

    There are several places in the world where sea weed beds will actually grow several feet per day. We recommend Liquid Karma from Botanicare to our customers for the best all around seaweed extract based supplement. This supplement is full of amino acids, guanos, seaweed, full NPK, hormones, minerals, vitamins and anything else that could be missing. Liquid Karma’s is meant to address potential macro and micro nutrients deficiencies Plants need macro nutrients to survive and flourish. This is called the NPK ratio, which stands for nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. In the vegetative phase it is import to use a plant nutrient high in nitrogen. The quality and source of your NPK nutrients will also have an effect on your production as well. You will see greater quality and performance out of a “Canna” nutrient schedule and a say a cheaper nutrient like “Bigfoot”.

    Purity plays a big role especially in a hydroponics environment. The cleaner nutrient the better the grow cycle. Canna is a little more expensive but justifies cost with unmatched yields. You also want a nutrient with adequate and high quality grade micro nutrients such as iron, sulfur, calcium and magnesium. Again the purity of these micro nutrients is also essential to high performance growing.  A great way to quickly feed your plant micro nutrients is through a foliar feed. A great product for this is “Spray N Grow” which will immediately feed your plant micro nutrients. Great for immediate problems. Signs of micro nutrients can include a “rams horn” effect where the leaves point downwards, brown spots around the edges and middle of the leaves and lack of structure.

    Example:
    Rams Horn

    • Product solutions for micro nutrient deficiencies:
      • Cal Mag by Botanicare
      • “Spray N Grow”
      • “GH Micro”
      • All available on our main shopping site! Hydro Liquidators

    ****Important note when using artificial lighting****

    Keep your overall foliage around 3 feet. HID ballast and bulbs can effectively penetrate up 3 feet, anything beyond this point could be considered a hindrance to performance. It will take your plant more energy sustaining the lower leaves and less energy on top where it counts.

    In other words you want the plant to not get dragged down by trying to keep those little leaves/buds alive; they steal the juice from the top!

    Not good… Again we can’t stress enough the need to keep to things trimmed. You will thank us for this valuable tip.

    Another key point is to keep the HID light a good 3-4 feet away from newly vegetating plants and gradually increase the distance from the top of the plant and the bottom of reflector. Keep in mind that you want your plants to reach for the light. The typical light cycle during the vegetative phase is 18 hours of light on and 6 hours off. Your plants will need the rest if you are using a wattage light say 200 watts or more.

    In some cases people will vegetate a plant for 24 hours a day, a cautionary note heat stress could occur with this method so it is important to keep you wattage down and use a fluorescent if you decide to do this. Do not let your plant get saturated with light which causes heat stress!

    As a guideline your leaves should be pointing up. ***Really important!***

    Production will be increased following these steps. When you grow indoors you will also need to consider your climate when your lights are on, if you are using anything above a 400 watt set up, you will more than likely need to ventilate your light with a fan and use an air cooled reflector. The hot air moving out will need to be ejected into another room outside the grow area like an attic or crawl space.

    Example:
    Ventilated Grow Light

    You can see the inline vortex fan sitting on top of a carbon filter sucking air through and out the reflector exhausting the heat. This type up set is needed to effectively control heat.

    If your room temperature exceeds 85 degrees your plants are in danger of heat stress and growth disruption. The inline fan also brings in fresh air by taking air in passively from outside the grow area. If your grow room needs more temperature control, you may want to consider adding a second intake fan to the equation for more cooling and greater Co2 levels which is a tremendous benefit to the plant. Air flow is essential for controlling mold and humidity levels.

    Humidity levels should range between 20%-60%. You risk having mold issues above the 60% mark. You will find that some strains are more susceptible to mold issues than others.

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